Miho Sato, London’s only female sushi master heads up the kitchen at The Aubrey, an award-winning Japanese restaurant, izakaya and cocktail bar. Here, the head sushi chef talks standout dishes, striving for perfection and why she loves the eclectic mix of restaurants in Knightsbridge
Meet… Miho Sato
When and why were you inspired to become a sushi master?
I wasn’t born with that aspiration, but my love of sushi grew as my knowledge grew, and as my skills increased. I almost feel that sushi chose me and guided me into learning as much as I can.
You are London’s only female sushi master. Are you hoping that more women will be inspired to enter this profession?
Historically, all restaurant kitchens have been male dominated. A lot of sacrifices must be made by a female chef to elevate their skills to the level of the top male chefs. It’s a choice, and one I was happy to make, but it’s not for everyone. It’s not my place to preach to motivate women, I can only show them the possibilities. Motivation must come from within. I just teach Japanese culture with all my heart to anyone who wants to learn from me, regardless of gender.
What is the process of becoming a sushi master and why do you think there are so few women?
It takes time, between 8 to 10 years. In Japan, most female graduates are relegated to part-time work, or dissuaded from pursuing this career entirely, being pushed towards pastry work if they do stay in the business. Often, they’re forced to leave hospitality entirely to focus on raising a family.
Were people surprised that you wanted to enter this profession? What kind of challenges have you faced in your journey?
My parents owned a small boutique hotel in north Japan, an area famous for water, sake and rice, so food and nature and seasonal ingredients were always around me. I don’t think they were surprised that I went into becoming a chef – I just hope they are proud of me and my journey. I think the challenges I faced are the same as any apprentice working to improve themselves; it’s hard. Keep doing what you are doing and learn from your mistakes.
I think if you take responsibility and have pride in your work as you continue your career, you will stay in love with it. Believe in yourself and learn that you will not be able to do it tomorrow, but you will by tomorrow’s tomorrow. I truly feel that I am only in the middle of my learning. Time is your greatest gift. I train hard and my training will continue until I retire.
When did you first move to London and what were your early impressions of the city?
I moved here at the end of 2001. I loved walking – so many Japanese cities are not built the same and so to walk around was simply a pleasure. London is a great city for walking and finding food to take with you while enjoying the fresh air.
What do you like about Knightsbridge?
Hyde Park and The Serpentine. I love to walk down Sloane Street to Duke of York Square. I love to see greenery in my everyday life. And sometimes I like to walk past Harrods to watch the tourists because this was me 22 years ago and seeing them makes me feel like I now belong in this city.
Where do you like to go in the area?
Believe it or not, I rarely go back to the same restaurant twice. I love the adventure of going to new restaurants to taste, watch and learn. That is something so great about Knightsbridge; you can find a little local family-owned restaurant next door to some of the most elevated global restaurants. I love this.
How would you describe your food ethos and that of The Aubrey?
I share ecological views with The Aubrey, [restaurant group] Maximal Concepts and Mandarin Oriental. We promote sustainability and also responsible sourcing from suppliers with sustainability certificates and we are always trying to reduce food waste and use no plastics. Personally, I always try to think about the impact on the global environment while improving myself. I care very much about sustainable produce; I do not like to just stand by idly and watch the world’s resources decline. I want to share my experience and the knowledge I have developed to become a top chef, while simultaneously showing the team how to respect the environment. The Aubrey does not serve any species on an endangered list, including bluefin tuna.
What do you find to be the most difficult or challenging sushi dish?
Actually, I think the most challenging aspect of sushi is controlling ourselves in our life outside of the kitchen. The flavours can be very subtle and quiet, so for me it is most important to highlight the base, the purest and most delicate tastes of the natural ingredients we use in our dishes. I try to keep my palate as clean as possible, I don’t drink soda or fizzy drinks to ensure I can discern all the subtleties in our delicate sashimi dishes. Flavours should complement each other when used correctly but if done badly, the original flavours can be lost.
What is the one standout dish at The Aubrey that you would recommend?
Snow crab roll with passion fruit. The sweet citrus of the passion fruit isn’t normally used in traditional Japanese cuisine, and we’re always looking for ways to be unique and creative. Or I would suggest our okonomiyaki served at brunch – this is my mother’s recipe! It is a savoury pancake dish made from grated cabbage and wheat flour cooked on a teppan, with aonori [dried seaweed flakes], katsuobushi [bonito flakes] and our homemade Kewpie sauce.
What’s in the pipeline at The Aubrey?
Ooh, I can’t say too much! But we have some new summer salads starting very soon and we are going to launch our own line of sake.
The Aubrey, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA
The Aubrey hosts a monthly Sake Supper Club, which includes a perfectly paired dinner menu specially created by Milo. The next event is on Thursday 13 July in partnership with Heavensake, a young brand committed to perfection in combining Japanese heritage with European modernity. The event includes an apéritif sake cocktail, canapés, a set dinner with sake pairing and a digestif cocktail by Bar Director Pietro Rizzo. Tickets cost £185pp. Booking is essential and places are extremely limited. Visit here to book your place.
